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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.